Frye Notch Lean-To to Near Eyebrow Trail, 7 mi (AT 268)

August 4th, 2018, Maine

It was very cool and steadily raining when I woke up—still alone in the shelter. Based on the weather report I saw yesterday, I expected the rain the start tapering off toward mid day and hopefully be finished by nightfall tonight. After breakfast it was still coming down so I stayed in the shelter reviewing the options for the next few days of hiking.

Coming up is what may be among the more challenging sections on the trail, Mahoosuc Arm and Mahoosuc Notch, which involve descending a long boulder-filled, rocky section. Then the Notch climbs over and through a boulder field with a few tunnels that require a crawl while pushing or dragging your pack. Everyone says to do these sections on a dry day.

As I waited in the shelter a NOBOs called Giant (skinny and maybe 6’6”?) stopped in for a break. He is an Arizona State student hiking the trail during his summer break. He started after his last final exam and will arrive back on his first day of class. Then the two NOBO hikers, a man from Cincinnati and a lady from Los Angeles, who tented near the shelter last night came in to finish packing up. The rain continued harder again and they decided to sit and wait for it to break.

The rain slowed and then stopped at noon. I was packed up already and headed straight out. After all the rain the trail was full of puddles and was even a running stream itself for much of the hike.

On the positive side, once your feet get soaked there is no longer any reason to avoid the puddles. You can proceed at higher speed, and safer, without hopping from rock to rock avoiding puddles. My main goal today was to avoid any falls so that I can start Mahoosuc Arm and Mahoosuc Notch in good shape and in drier weather tomorrow.

It was quite a slow climb in the rain to the top of Baldpate Mountain. Even without views it is beautiful hiking in the mist and clouds.

On the way down the mountain I passed a sign for a view described (by the sign itself) as “extraordinary.” That was tempting, but it was rainy and cloudy and it would have been a mile round trip. So no extraordinary view for me today.

As I reached the bottom of the valley there was a road crossing and the weather started to break. The clouds cleared and the late afternoon turned sunny.

On the other side of the road it was another climb alongside a rushing river cascading down the mountain. I climbed for another hour or so and found a place to “stealth camp.” Stealth sites are just little areas suitable for a tent or hammock off the trail—not official sites listed as shelters or camp sites. Sometimes these are nice for the privacy and quiet they provide.

I only hiked about 8 miles today but, given the late start and success at avoiding slips or falls, I was happy with the progress.

Human Nature Hostel to Frye Notch Lean-To, 14 mi (AT 261)

August 3rd, 2018, Maine

After another breakfast of plate-size pancakes with butter, blueberries, and syrup we headed outside to pack and wait for the shuttle.

Around 8am the shuttle started back to our trailhead. The hostel shuttle was a converted school bus (small one) and had a TV installed with 80s music videos playing. It was entertaining but kind of surreal as we roared down the curvy rural roads of southern Maine.

We learned that Mark was a yoga instructor and yesterday he lead a session for stretching the legs, hips, and back. And we decided a good trail name for him would be Yogi Bear. He accepted the name. So Yogi decided to slackpack today—that is leave your main pack at a location like a hostel and take a light day pack with water, snacks, and a few essentials for the day’s hike. The hostel or other service then picks you up at a different trailhead and you spend another night with them. Then the next day they return you to where you left off and you continue with your full pack. So he was doing about 10 miles and I was hoping to make it almost 15 to Frye Notch Lean-to.

The weather called for rain in the afternoon and overnight and the clouds rolled in early to make it a cool grey day. There weren’t many views today.

Late in the day I passed Dunn Falls and Dunn Cascades. I didn’t take the side trail for a better look because light rain had already started. I hoped to get set up somewhere before any heavy rain began. But I could tell looking down that it would have been a spectacular sight from a different angle. And I got a kick out of a broken sign announcing how “fragile” the area is. Yes, so fragile even the sign got broken…

So I continued in light rain for the next several hours. It took at least an hour for the trees and plants to get saturated and start dripping down onto the trail. I was glad it never rained harder and I reached the lean-to just before 7pm—after almost ten hours of hiking. There were a couple tents already set up but no one was in the shelter itself. I decided to take up a spot and was surprised that no one else came and I had he whole place to myself.

I got water from a stream, made dinner, hung up the food in a large tree nearby, and settled down for the night. If there was heavy rain in the morning I planned to wait it out in the shelter for a while. It was supposed to start clearing by mid day. After spending a couple nights in a bunk room with other hikers the contrast with this empty shelter was apparent. But i was happy to be “inside” tonight, with the rain pattering on the metal roof above.

Zero Day: Human Nature Hostel Review

August 2nd, 2018, Roxbury, Maine

The Human Nature Hostel has only been in operation this season. It is a unique and interesting space—-a geodesic dome above a basement level.

The bunks are $30 including trail shuttles and laundry. Trail shuttles run on a published schedule three times a day, at two different trailheads. This is a great service for hikers who often have little to no mobile service.

All you can eat pancakes are $5; Walmart shuttle is $5; and they offer an evening shuttle to a dinner location or provide an in-house dinners on certain days for a suggested $10 donation. Loaner clothing is available for use during your stay. Slackpacking is offered, if desired, with a second night stay.

The hostel was clean and comfortable. Yukon, the owner, plans to be open for the hiking season plus peak winter sports season with a couple months off between each.

The hostel has a nice organic garden out back.

For the warm season, the hostel has two outdoor showers with great hot water which were perfect.

There is a refrigerator for guests and several for staff. Guests are welcome to use the kitchen, gas grill, and full facilities not otherwise marked for staff. The back area outside the lower level has a fire pit and some space for relaxing.

The bunk room is in the basement level and remained comfortable and cool for sleeping even during my summer visit.

There is also a TV with various internet based movies and programming.

Yukon has plans to expand the hostel in the future and some construction is ongoing. I fully enjoyed my stay and would not hesitate to recommend Human Nature Hostel for other AT hikers.

Bemis Mountain Rd to Human Nature Hostel, 13 mi (AT 247)

August 1st, 2018, Maine

I got started early in order to finish the 12 miles to the next road before the hostel shuttle arrived at 3:30pm. It was another nice day but we heard rain was expected later in the day and overnight.

The hike went over the Beamis Mountains which were covered in blueberries up top. It seems like we are at the peak ripening period for blueberries at this spot. Unfortunately I had already eaten a big breakfast and wasn’t very hungry but I stopped a few times when I found a bush with lots ready to eat. I also discovered that the spruce grouse loves blueberries. They are up on the hilltops now with their chicks eating berries. I happened to see a male and couple females plus several large chicks. The male wasn’t afraid of me and fanned out his feathers and strutted around for a bit. The female flew up to a roosting branch. And the chicks ignored me and continued hopping up to reach blueberries on bushes above them. They weren’t quite tall enough to reach them so just jumped up to pick one berry at a time—which entertained me for a few minutes.

Mark had arrived to the same camp site as me last night and we decided to head into Andover together for resupply and a rest. Matt, a 19 year old hiker from central New York State, also caught up with us and we all hiked together for part of the day. Although Matt is from New York people think he has a Canadian accent—so he got the trail name “Old Canadian,” which is pretty funny for a 19 year old.

We reached the pick up point at the road around 3pm. Old Canadian hitchhiked into town and Mark and I waited for the shuttle. There were some NOBOs there eating and getting ready to get back on the trail. They had been into town earlier. We talked with them about what to expect over our next several days.

The shuttle picked us up and took us to the Human Nature Hostel which is pretty far out in the country. They provide breakfast, laundry, and a shuttle to Walmart at noon the next day. I was already planning to spend the day here resting and Mark decided to spend a “zero day” (day with no trail miles) as well. We had house-made pizza, pasta salad, and watermelon for dinner which was really good and filling.

There are 14 bunks at the hostel and a good number were full. While inventorying my remaining food at the table downstairs I had a nice conversation with Bluebird, a NOBO hiker from Texas about my age who said she has lived her whole life in Houston and Austin and wanted to experience some other places in our country. She was hiking on and off with another hiker from Minnesota but I didn’t catch his trail name. There was also another young couple from Minnesota hiking SOBO that I had seen briefly at Shaw’s some time back. An English lady called Little Red Riding Hood had been hiking with them since Shaw’s or maybe earlier. Since they were hiking SOBO I expect we may run into each other from time to time.

And here are some other things I enjoyed seeing today:

 

Eddy Pond to Bemis Mountain Rd, 17 mi (AT 234)

July 31st, 2018, Maine

Over the past week I have been camping on and off with a nice Canadian couple hiking with their dog—a large German Shepherd like dog, but all white. We have been just about on the same pace together, starting and finishing each day in nearly the same place. While I was packing up in the morning, they stopped by and said hello. Mark, who I met yesterday on the mountain, also swung by as he headed out. It seemed like I was the late starter this morning so I finished up and hit the trail about 15 minutes behind them.

I stopped for lunch at Little Swift River Pond and met another NOBO called “Brand New.” He was maybe in his mid twenties and had been laid off from his job in marketing and decided to take the opportunity to hike the AT. He said he sold everything and headed out—without any complications or bills to worry about. He seemed to be having a great time and didn’t seem ready for it to be over. I thought it was funny how so many NOBOs couldn’t wait for it to be over, yet some, like Brand New, were stretching it out. He said after he was finished he’d go back to a marketing job. Maybe he was in no real hurry to do that.

I passed a couple hiking with day packs and pruning tools. I said, “wait a minute, are you some of the crazy people who maintain the trails?” They said they were. I thanked them for their service—and it is a true service as volunteers—and that I was having an amazing time on the trails in Maine. They said the trails in Maine are a point of pride. It does show.

At this point I must mention one thing about hiking in Maine: there are moose droppings all over the place on the trail. You see it so often you wonder why you don’t see a moose around every corner. I assume maybe they are nocturnal, like deer, because I haven’t seen one, or any evidence of one, except the poop. Until today! I didn’t see a moose, but was happy to see a series of moose tracks on the trail. And maybe I’ll get lucky and spot a moose in the next few days…

And I passed power lines that had an abundance of raspberries coming into perfect ripeness. I stopped for a few minutes for a snack.

And now for some of the other interesting things I saw today:

Spaulding Lean-to to Eddy Pond, 15 mi (AT 217)

July 30th, 2018, Maine

It was another nice day. But I learned from a hiker with phone service the next rain might start on Wednesday. So I want to get as far as possible toward Andover before it starts. I have a box coming to the Human Nature Hostel near Andover.

Just before lunch time I came out onto a sunny hilltop and saw a guy resting there. I stopped to say hi and found out he was another SOBO hiker. Mark was from State College, PA and retired from the Army last year. He mentioned he had done a long bike trip after retirement and then decided to hike the AT this year. Mark headed out while I stayed to have lunch.

After lunch the trail took me toward the Saddleback Mountains. It started with a river ford. As I took my shoes off another hiker was hanging out there on a big rock in the river. He started playing a small flute-like instrument and sounded pretty good. So I crossed to the sound of music and he continued playing the whole time I got myself ready on the other side, which put me into a good mood.

After the river, I started ascending to the first mountain. After a while I came toward a girl hiking in the opposite direction who, as we got closer, looked sad and had been crying. I asked if she was okay and she said yes, she was just having a hard day and was ready to be finished. She had started in early March and was tired and just wanted to accomplish her goal and go home. I felt bad for her and tried to cheer her up. In actuality, 2018 NOBOs have had a hard year: a very harsh winter then summer heat waves through the mid Atlantic. I said she was about to cross her 2000 mile point very soon and she was over 90% finished. If it was a test she would already have an “A” and she should be proud. She laughed a little and I said it was hard to believe anyone was still going after what they had been through. And, here she was, still going when so many others had quit. I gave her a hug, wished he the best, and said goodbye—hopeful she could finish her last 200 miles in high spirits.

After maybe another hour of climbing I came to the first peak called Saddleback Junior. The Saddlebacks are a series of several peaks, mostly above the tree line so there were amazing 360 degree views. On Saddleback Junior I took a break and rested for a while. Mark was already up there and hung around a few more minutes.

After Mark left, I said hi to a NOBO girl called Olive Branch (just in the lower left of the pic above) who had been resting and talking on the phone. I asked if she had the latest weather. She confirmed that it looked like thunderstorms on Wednesday. Then she told me a story about her experience in a storm last week. She had been caught on an exposed mountain during a thunderstorm. Lightning started and she had nowhere to go so she started running as lightning struck the hilltop around her. She was terrified and ran for about a mile and a half before she ran into a friend she had passed earlier and realized she had run in the wrong direction. So the two of them, both scared, continued back downhill in the wrong direction just to get to the closest shelter. She swore if there was any chance of rain in the forecast she was going to make sure she would not be on top of a mountain again. So she was planning on being in town Wednesday, not on the trail. After her experience that seemed reasonable.

And finally, here are some of the things I enjoyed seeing today:

And as a rare sight, a ladder on a steep rock was a welcome sight!

Hostel of Maine to Spaulding Lean-to, 14 mi (AT 202)

July 29th, 2018, Maine

Billy, an older hiker also staying at the Hostel of Maine, and I were the two planning to depart SOBO. Justin dropped us back to the trailhead after breakfast.

The weather for the next few days looks like dry weather which should help my progress. I am hoping to bypass the next town, Rangely, and go all the way to Andover for resupply and a rest. I ordered an unlocked phone from Amazon and had it sent to the Human Nature Hostel near Andover. This hostel is owned by three thru hikers and offered free shuttles at set times.

As predicted it didn’t rain, but the weather was mostly cloudy and cool most of the day—perfect weather for a walk in the woods. Early in the hike I came across some unusual looking mushrooms. It was the first time I had seen this type—deep purple. But I saw more like them from time to time all day.

And then I ran across a 2000 mile marker put there by some creative NOBO. That marked mile 189.9 for me…and 2000 to go!

And of course the mountain top views were great thanks to good weather.

And here are a few more pictures of some interesting things I came across today.

And finally, there was a plaque commemorating the completion of the trail at that location in 1937. It gives credit to the Civilian Conservation Corps for their part in working on the trail.

Zero Day: Hostel of Maine Review

July 28th, 2018, Carrabassett Valley, Maine

The Hostel of Maine

Justin and Melanie have been running this “adventure hostel” for just six months. It’s a nice, newish building that was formerly a B&B. They plan to stay open all year due to their location near hiking and biking trails as well as the entrance to Sugarloaf Ski Area. As such, they aren’t specifically a “hiker hostel” but seem to recognize hikers as an important summer customer. So, here is my review, from the perspective of a thru hiker.

The building is spotlessly clean and furnished at a much higher level than traditional hiker hostels. They have a few rules that are designed to keep it this way: no packs or gear inside the building. Trail shoes must be kept outside. You essentially will be barefoot or in clean socks inside. And a shower must be the first stop. So your gear should not come indoors at all—and should be left in a ski-type locker outside across the parking area.

There is no place or provision yet for cleaning and drying your gear but I made that recommendation to Justin. In the meantime, you’ll need to inquire about how to get that done. For example, I came in off a rain day and had mud, leaf trash, etc. all over my shoes and legs. And much of my gear was damp. It wasn’t clear what I should do about this, but I was reluctant to go inside even barefoot without hosing off a little first. Also, if you have cool or humid weather, your shoes won’t dry well, if at all, outside. There is no shoe drying equipment on hand but that would be easy to add and make a big difference. I asked and was told I could put my shoes in the boiler room overnight, so there is a work around if you ask. When I departed after a two night stay, the rest of my pack and gear was still damp and in the same condition as I arrived.

They have a decent and growing short term resupply in the basement. It is effectively open by appointment once in the morning and once around 8pm. During my stay there was no alcohol fuel available but Justin mentioned they may get some to sell by the ounce. He also went out of his way to buy a small bottle from a gas station to give me what I needed prior to my departure. Also, prices aren’t yet marked on resupply items but Justin tallies it up—and can give you a total later.

The bunks are built in with light, power, and USB ports in each—a fantastic touch. The beds are comfortable. And the bunk rooms are carpeted(!) which was unexpected and probably geared more to the former B&B and winter sport crowd. I myself would prefer a hard surface floor to ease some cleaning concerns but must say the carpet was nice to walk on.

The $39 price includes trail shuttles and an ample continental breakfast with some homemade items. They also offer $10 laundry which can be split with another person or two (staff does the laundry). They do provide other shuttles and slackpacking for a fee.

You are expected to do your own dishes and clean up after yourself, which is fine. But if the hostel were crowded, I doubt this system would work well, especially after breakfast. Breakfast starts at 7am and the trail shuttle departs at 7:30, which isn’t a leisurely meal if you need to wait in line for one sink in the kitchen. I expect it should work well at all other times.

They also offer a good selection of beer and wine. The good news is that this is all in house. The bad news is, for those that might want to, there are signs saying no outside alcohol may be consumed in the common areas or stored in the guest refrigerator. So you have a nice selection but will pay $5+ for a can of beer, if desired. This is not a selling point to me, your humble thru hiker, and I think a lower price point may be in order for customers who serve and clean up after themselves.

The hostel also offers a nightly shuttle to an area restaurant. Plus they provide a small selection of reasonably priced convenience foods, frozen pizzas, etc. which the staff will prepare on request. This is a nice service for tired hikers.

There is a small grocery store about 0.8 miles away, which is walkable, unless you’re resting an injury. In that case I’m confident you could get a ride from the crew when they weren’t busy or were already driving out for another reason. And the library is right next to the grocery but has limited hours (wasn’t open when I was there). But the WiFi and charging options at the hostel were excellent so I never needed to go back to the library.

Also, the six person bunk room and the four-person bunk room each has a big well-appointed bathroom with excellent shower. There were free earplugs, body wash, shampoo, and conditioner provided. Very nice. And there are a number of private rooms available upstairs but I didn’t get a look at those.

All in all it is a beautiful and unusual hostel. This has been my third hostel experience on the AT and was the most comfortable in terms of personal amenities. But I’ve spoken to numerous thru hikers about their hostel experiences—the good, bad, ugly, and downright creepy. This one is easily among the very “good” experiences, even though it is still a new operation.

Justin and Melanie are not long distance hikers and are considering how to develop hiker friendly amenities. This is not much different than the many other general lodging options elsewhere that don’t exclusively cater to the hiking crowd. But here, facility appearance and cleanliness are top priorities. And I get it. The place is beautiful and new. It’s the kind of place you’d be proud to visit with non-hiking family and friends. In other words, it is a classy place. And they are still working on the balance between the different types of customers.

I did relay to Justin the need for long distance hikers to have some way to take care of gear cleanliness, maintenance, and care. There may be ways for our dirty, wet, and/or damaged gear to get worked on without upsetting the cleanliness and aesthetic of the place.

But, I don’t think you can beat the Hostel of Maine for overall comfort and value. And if they figure out how to accommodate the “hiker needs” mentioned above, I doubt they will have a peer in their niche.

And, finally, the hostel is home to a dog, Zoe, who is kind of also in training. She’s a smart dog but hasn’t really learned her job at the hostel yet: she barks at most everyone who comes and goes. And sometimes she just runs around outside barking for the fun of it. It’s entertaining but can break the intentionally quiet and relaxing feel of the place.

The owners care and want you to have a good stay. And where else are you going to hang out on comfy new furniture and walk barefoot on handmade oriental rugs during your time off trail? Nowhere for $39, that’s for sure. And Justin and Melanie are sharp proprietors. I’m confident the hostel will just get better and smoother as they go. If they choose to make long distance hikers a customer of focus they will crack the code and find the right balance. For now, just be aware that your gear is an afterthought and, if it arrives wet and dirty it might depart in the same condition. In the meantime, it is still the one place I’d like to return to for a chill and relaxing stay while day hiking around the area. I look forward to seeing what this place grows into.

Little Bigelow Lean-To to Hostel of Maine, 15 mi (AT 188)

July 27th, 2018, Maine

We awoke to blue skies which was great after the rain yesterday. It was only the second time I had slept inside a shelter. It seemed like I did more tossing and turning than in the hammock. But I was glad to be in a dry lean-to when I woke up.

Magnot and I both woke up around 5am and started getting ready. With enough time I thought I might make it to Maine Highway 27, the road to Stratton and Carabasset Valley. Both towns have hiker hostels and resupply.

I headed out about 6:15, my earliest day yet. The short hiking day yesterday allowed me to wake up early and feeling refreshed. The morning sun gave me some interesting views and there was heavy fog in the valleys. I hiked along all morning and didn’t see anyone else until after 11am.

Today’s hike covered two tall peaks called The Bigelows. Other than hiking Mt Katahdin this was the most elevation change yet in one day.

At the West Peak I was able to get a single bar of T-mobile service. I called the Hostel of Maine and confirmed their shuttle would be at the trailhead at 4:30.

I was on pace to make this time but still had 8 miles to hike. And with about four miles remaining, and a steep descent, the rain started again. I was concerned I might not make the shuttle but ended up reaching the road in time. Today was 15.6 miles with some rain and a lot of up and down: a good, strenuous day. And I was so glad to be riding the shuttle at this point. More about the Hostel of Maine tomorrow!

Caratunk and West Carry Pond Lean-To to Little Bigelow Lean-To, 8 mi (AT 173)

July 26th, 2018, Maine

As expected it rained most of the night. After the long hike yesterday I was in no hurry to get up. Several of the others had already departed by the time I started packing. After breakfast I finished packing and got started around 10am. It was still raining and continued through the morning.

On rain days like this, many sections of the trail become long mud puddles. If your shoes aren’t too wet it’s usually possible to hop along partially submerged rocks, or look for the muddy sections that seem firm enough. But after a while, the shoes and socks are already wet so it’s not much use wasting time. Just head through it and do the best you can.

At 1:30pm I arrived at Little Bigelow Lean-to and stopped for lunch. Because I skipped a hot dinner yesterday I decided to make a hot lunch. In the meantime I went down to the stream for water and a quick dip in the pool below the cascade. The water was chilly but I was able to get in up to my waist and rinse out some clothes.

After lunch I planned to continue another 5 miles to a camp site. I sat ready to go for about twenty minutes, hopeful the rain would slow or stop. But it only got stronger so I decided to stay in place for the night. I took the open corner of the lean-to and watched the rain fall.

There was a group of girls and two counselors in tents at the site. They are backpacking 200 miles in 22 days. Despite the soggy day they seemed to be having a great time.